I arrived in a bloody freezing wintry Santiago at 4.30am after a pretty uneventful flight (having slept most of the way). The airline food was actually delicious (as all my airline food in South America has been).
I had a fair amount of trouble getting into my hostel so early in the morning as the night porter was fast asleep, but when I entered it was worth it as the hostel was stunning. It rightly deserves its description as the best hostel in South America with modern designer facilities throughout and a HOT shower. The only downside was that the shower doors were utterly see-through, but after nearly 3 months travelling I'd left any feelings of modesty long behind.
Annoyingly I couldn't check in until 3pm so I had to lay on their sofa watching endless episodes of Fraiser and Two and a Half Men.
I began this blog with a big meal out with some of my dad's colleagues in Madrid and as the Spanish element of my trip was coming to an end I thought a similar meal would provide a good bookend. Rather cheekily therefore I emailed the Santiago office to tell them I was in the city. Within a few minutes the head partner replied kindly inviting me round. After so many months in Andean shanty towns it was rather a shock to rock up to the centre of 'Sanhattan' - Santiago's version of Manhattan - and see all the skyscrapers and Starbucks. Even though it was winter, Santiago massively warmed up at lunchtime and you could almost get away with T-shirts and shorts.
The head partner showed me round the office and then we were joined by another partner for lunch. They had booked us into this really exclusive and stunning members club for lunch - all red velvet and chandeliers. However, the doorman took one look at me and refused me entry. I tried explaining to him that it was wonder enough I had a clean white shirt after 3 months travelling and that it was a bit much to expect me to be carrying brogues, but to no avail. Therefore we were forced instead to go to a local pizza restaurant. We began with the Chilean version of the Pisco Sour cocktail (I'm sorry Peru, but Chile does them better) and then had various pizzas, salads and deserts to share.
Back to the hostel and finally a chance to sleep. When I eventually woke up I decided to make use of the fantastic kitchen facilities at the hostel (just look at the complimentary spice rack below) and have a go at cooking my own ceviche. Not yet trusting myself with raw fish I stuck to making a mushroom ceviche, but the results were very encouraging nonetheless.
Incidentally this hostel was very close the hostel I had previously stayed in with Tom, Lizzie and Josie and every time I walked a local street I had flashbacks to our previous visit.
Day 78
I spent the morning checking out the Mercado Central - a wrought iron fish market ...
... and the amazing Museum of Pre-Colombian Art which gave me one last chance to see some Andean mummies. They had these really impressive life size wooden statues in the museum - see below.
Now I have to admit to a lapse in taste. Hankering after lunch and not being able to afford the fish market I headed to a shopping center's food court instead. It was there that I saw my first ever Taco Bell. I've heard so much about this American fast food joint and I reasoned that South America is close enough to the States to justify eating there as a form of cultural experience. Unfortunately the tacos I got were absolutely disgusting and felt more unhealthy than even the Big Macs that I indulge in from time to time back home.
Feeling that my last meal before a long flight needed to be a little healthier I cooked some mushrooms in garlic, soy sauce and coriander for dinner, before heading out to the airport.
Day 79
The lost day. Today was spent entirely on an airplane. Incidentally today was also a day entirely without sunlight as we followed nighttime across the Pacific. I was unfortunate enough to be seated in the row behind the baby section and was treated to 18 hours of toddler screaming, but this was recompensed by the fact there were two free seats next to me which would allow for a DIY business-class flight. However, the woman on the other end of the seats had the same idea and dived across them before me. Thankfully she was a nice person and mid-way through the night offered to swap - allowing me a glorious sleep. I initially despaired at the complete lack of current films being offered by the in-flight entertainment system, but it turned out the weird independent films on show were absolutely brilliant. "Barney's Version" was New-York-Jewish-Woody-Allen-esque romance at its finest while "Catfish" was strangely addictive, though a little exploitative .
I landed in New Zealand and had a somewhat trying time with immigration/customs. While it's fair enough that water purchased at Santiago's airport may not be acceptable, they should at least offer somewhere to pour it away at the checkpoint rather than forcing you to leave a queue you have been in for 30 minutes and rejoin the back.
Finally at 7am on Day 80 I arrived in Sydney.
No comments:
Post a Comment